The Laundry all Over the World

March 13th, 2012

Every country has its own way of doing the laundry, which is something travellers must think about when they are away for over a week. It has to be said that most hotels charge exorbitant fees to do the washing so alternatives must be found. If you are using a hotel price comparison site then chances are you do not want to spend $5 to wash a sock.

In the USA, some hotels have laundry rooms which can be used by guests. Think of the suites type hotels which come with little kitchens. Staying in the USA, despite being a rich country. people tend not to own their own washing machines. Each block of flats shares a common laundry room, which is great for the environment and is really a good idea. Do we need our own machine that gets a few hours use per week?

In Latin America washing machines are also rare in apartments. Some blocks of flats, the newer ones, have the American model of  common laundry rooms. What is common in countries like Argentina is the local service wash, where you take a pile of clothes and they wash and press it for $5 or so, often the same day. Excellent news for people who pack light!

The UK used to have laundromats like in the US, self service ones, but in the UK they have largely disappeared. You need to search a bit to get to find them now, just Google the area you are in with laundromat to get local listings.

Getting in to a Boca Juniors Game

February 13th, 2012

In Buenos Aires there are two main football teams, River Plate and Boca Juniors. Unfortuantely in 2011 River Plate were relegated to the second division depriving us of the main event in the Argentinian football league, the superclassico between these two sides.

Often listed as one of those things that you have to do, to see a football match in Buenos Aires is a very noisy experience, not the same as the tranquil games we get in Europe, with maybe games in Istanbul coming closest! River Plate have the biggest stadium in Argentina, the venue for the 1978 World Cup which the hosts won, but as a viewing ground it is not the best having been built in a circle, not the  best shape for a football pitch.

On the other hand, the Boca stadium is perfect for football. High tiered stands right next to the pitch and the infamous Boca fans who never stop with the noise make an amazing atmosphere.

But I do not know ! It is not easy to get into a Boca game, they have an odd ticketing system. Most tickets go to the club members, not to the general public. They do have  a ticket office near the Boca stadium where tickets can be sold on the morning of the game where you may get lucky. The common tourist alternative is to join a tourist group where you pay a lot of money to be guided to the game. This has the upside in that you will get in, paying 8 times the face value of a ticket. The other downsides are they take you there hours before, for your safety they say, but I am not sure what there is to be scared about in all honesty, normal scaremongering by the guide books. And they keep you there long after the game too, and I have heard they give you a slice of terrible pizza too !

So I tried to do what I would do in any other country, buy a ticket outside of the stadium. There are lots of warning of fake tickets to be found but about this I cannot say as the game I went to see was the season opener between Boca and Olimpo. This meant that there were no tickets on sale to the public, the only way in was on a tourist group or as a club member. But I had heard that there was another way. Staff can overlook the fact that you have no ticket and let you in anyway for a fee.

So asking the football shirt sellers outside soon found me led to a fixer, a person who can get you inside. I joined a group of other people who had also paid the guy 200 pesos (ouch – $45) to smuggle us inside. I felt better as some of the others were argentinians. The guy went off leaving us near a cafe where he knew everyone and … never came back! It seemed the game on this evening could not be penetrated due to a large police cordon around the whole site, with every single ticket/club card being checked to allow you to even approach the stadium. Sigh, money lost but it was kinda fun in a twisted way and a good experience to amuse friends in a bar with !

Happy Hour Buenos Aires Steak Dinner

February 10th, 2012

Last night I finally made my way to La Cabrera restaurant in Viejo Palermo. Regarded as one of the top beef restaurants in Buenos Aires it must be worth a visit. The main advantage of La Cabrera though is every weekday evening between the hours of 7pm and 8pm they have half price happy hour, half price on the full menu including drinks. The drinks part sure makes the evening go quickly as they have bottle of Argentinian Malbec starting at $8 so when halving that comes to $4 for a bottle. My head is still spinning after last night !

As to the logistics. Firstly La Cabrera is actually 2 restaurants about 50 metres apart and the happy hour can be at either of them. Make sure you arrive just before 7pm as places fill up very quickly and if you get there by ten past the chances are the tables will have all gone. You will either need to spot which restaurant the queue is at or ask one of the many staff to make sure you are in the right queue. The staff hand out menus whilst you are queuing, but be aware that all the tables used for happy hour are inside, not the ones on the pavement.

Once you are seated it is a  bit chaotic, as they have to serve 40 or so people in an hour. You have to leave by 8:30 when the normal seating is done at full price. So make sure you know what you want and order it as soon as you can. If you linger over the menu you may find your steak has to wait for 30 other steaks to be cooked leaving you sitting there watching everyone else eat whilst you get 5 minutes to eat yours ! Don’t expect fantastic service as they busy busy busy.

What to go for. I tried a rare rib eye steak which was pretty rare but quite a fatty piece and I have to say it was quite hard work cutting it up even with the steak knife. My girlfriend had a medium sirloin steak which seemed better than mine, quite juicy and the fat around the edge. Each steak comes with lots of tiny sides and a bread basket which is all you really need. The sides are guacamole, garlic, potato salads etc. Not a lot but enough. If you need more than get some fries perhaps.

Our meal of two 400g steaks and an $15 bottle of Malbec with water came to 160 pesos altogether, around $35. Tips are not included and they stamp this on the receipt in English.

All in all a good night except too much wine in the girlfriend ! Make sure you pick a close by hotel in Palermo. I don’t think it would be worth the full price of $70 but then I assume the service would be much better in the evening when they are less rushed.

Hotels IN the airport

February 8th, 2012

A few weeks ago I had one of those horrible 6am flights out of London Heathrow airport. Not much could be worse really ! A flight at this time entails waking at 3am or so and then spending 50 pounds on catching a taxi to the airport, such fun !

But there can be a better way… I thought if I travelled the night before on the London Underground or by bus it would cost me all of a few pounds, which I could then put towards a hotel at the airport. Meaning I could wake up at 4am instead of 5am.. hmmm. Especially as I was flying out of Terminal 4, where there seems to be only one hotel actually at Terminal 4. No disrespect  to the Hilton but this is not the cheapest hotel out there where it is likely to be around $180 a night unless you get lucky by finding a better deal on my site !

The other hotels at Heathrow are not suitable for Terminal 4 due to the layout of the airport. It would still entail a taxi ride at 3:30 am, so all I would save is maybe a little stress.

But then I remembered the Yotel chain. When I was passing through Amsterdam Schipol on time I saw they had a Yotel in the departure area and that they had a Yotel at Heathrow too. So I checked and lo behold, there is a Yotel at T4, and to make it even better it is landside, not airside like in Amsterdam.

Yotel offer very small rooms. Micro rooms. Tiny, really tiny. If you are sharing you better be intimate with the other person!

But the benefits are good. They charge by the hour which makes them good value, as it is unlikely you will be staying more than 8 or 10 hours. They offer wifi free of charge, and being in the airport there is no shortage of coffee places or restaurants! But beware that the air quality was poor, a bit like you were stuck in a storage container at the airport ! But then, you kind of are in a way.

The Best Ice Cream in Buenos Aires

February 3rd, 2012

Gelato, Helado or ice cream. All delicious and Buenos Aires is full of ice cream parlours. But which is the tastiest ??

After much tasting at many places I think I can now give the definitive answer.There are a couple of chains of ice cream shops, like Freddo and Volta which are fine but not the best.

The best one? Tufic in Palermo on Guatemala and Armenia. In a city full of Dulce de Leche helados theirs stands high above the rest, sweet but not sickly, and none of that bitter after taste, perfection ! Try their ice cream, believe me it is awesome. They have seating inside and out, and a standard quarter kilo is slightly cheaper than the competition!

Most ice cream places have special offers, particularly on Mondays. Mondays are commonly buy one kilo, get a second free, definitely the time to stock up your freezer ! Normally Tuesdays and Wednesdays also have little offers too but as the weekend approaches the offers freeze up !

Buenos Aires Airport

February 2nd, 2012

Not the world’s greatest airport and not a place to be shy about pushing in !

After leaving your plane. expect a decent walk to immigration, where you may expect to see long long queues depending how many planes have arrived before you! The immigration has roughly 4 lines. I say roughly as it is all a bit of a mess. The first line nearest the entrance is for crew/diplomats/people with babies. If you have the nerve just join this line and you will be out very quickly, just say you have a bad leg/feel sick etc. The second line is for local citizens, again shorter than the others. The third line is for foreigners which as you can expect is the longest. This is where if you can it is best to push in nearer the front, as plenty of people do and it could well save you an hour, but this depends on your morals! The final line may or not be operating, it is for US citizens who have to pay a reciprocal entrance fee.

The immigration is very quick, not much asked, no fee required. Then onto the luggage hall where you can expect to see more long lines ! Every suitcase has to be pushed through a scanner by the customs guys which when they only have 2 working can lead to long lines. After finding your suitcase you have the choice of joining the long line or pushing in near the front which is the same place you will retrieve your case. Again, your choice, but everyone else will be pushing in so if you line up it could be another hour waiting!

After the suitcase scan which no-one seems to watch, out into the terminal. First up are two exchange places where they will really rip you off, please don’t change here unless you are desperate and then only enough for immediate needs. We are talking of rates 20% under the normal. There is no ATM in the arrivals terminal, you need to go the adjacent departures terminal to find one which is a far better bet. Next to these exchange places are some taxi stands where you can pay in dollars for the trip downtown at a not too rip off rate. In January it was about $45 to the centre, and the driver will come to you and hep you to the taxi. No ordering necessary, there are always plenty to go around.

There are of course other taxis around, unofficial and official, and a bus can be found outside which will cost a dollar to downtown, but for this you need coins and patience as it takes a long time to get there!

Changing Money in Argentina

February 2nd, 2012

Back to my favorite topic again, how to get that extra 5% out of my travel money! Argentina is an interesting case when it comes to changing money. Last year they introduced currency controls and the government holds a crawling peg to the US dollar, meaning they let the value of the Argentine peso fall by a few per cent each year.

The currency controls were introduced to try and bring more people into the tax system. Since Argentines have little trust in their currency, they traditionally keep their savings in dollars and many exchange places, cambios, exist for this purpose. Now for an Argentine to change money, they must give proof of how they received this money and show ID to be able to change into dollars. You can see where I am going with this !

So a parallel market has developed where no ID or proof is required and of course with better rates (for US$ holders) than the government rates. Currently the official exchange rate is around 4.3 pesos to the dollar and I have been searching for a higher rate.

Worst place ever to change is at the airport, just don’t do it. You can pay taxi drivers in dollars to get you into town. If you want to use the bus then you will need some change (coins) so change $20 or so but no more. The next worst place to change is at the cambios in the tourist part of town, along Florida Street or in the fancy malls. There they offer 4.2 pesos to the dollar. Get out of the tourist zone and you will receive the official rate of 4.3 to the dollar. Banks also offer the official rate but you need an account at the bank in order to use them so take those off the list.

Now onto the unofficial cambios. These are not easy to find as I assume they are bending the law. They are normally hidden inside a shop in some way and without knowing where they are will be very hard to find. I found my first one in Palermo by asking in a bank and I was pointed to where it was, though I had to ask a 2nd bank again where it was. Even then I only found it in what looked like an art gallery by a woman standing at the back near a little window. At this place I was given 4.5 to the dollar.

After much posting to forums to find out what the real rate should be I heard as of the end of January 2012 it is 4.7 pesos to the dollar. I have been informed of a jewellery store in Recoleta which has a cambio inside that offers this rate, and I am about to debark to find it. I will keep you informed.

As an aside, many shops have an exchange rate on their door allowing you to purchase goods in the store in dollars, and often these rates will be in the area of 4.4 or 4.5 to the dollar, so worth considering. In fact, virtually every shop will accept dollars in payment but make sure you negotiate a good rate, and keep your dollar notes nice and shiny, no torn or written on notes.

If you need more info email me, see here for contact details.

Ok, I am back from the Cambio, the exchange rate I received on $300 was 4.65 to the $. I did not try very hard for a higher rate. This cambio is on Rodriguez  Peña Street in Recoleta, between Vicente Lopéz and Guido, next to a  shoe  store. The window says exchange on it and you need to ring a buzzer to get in from the street. Very efficient once inside.

Every peso counts, particularly for buying ice-cream, my next post !

The best palace in St Petersburg

October 13th, 2011

Having trawled my way around every palace I could find, and there are a number of them. The Winter Palace, aka The Hermitage, is very pretty except for the million tourists, but if you leave the centre of town and head out to a small town called Pushkin about 30km outside of St Petersburg you will come to the Summer Palace. Beautiful gardens and the most ornate of all the palaces inside, including the incredible amber room, where everything is made from amber.

Amber Room

Amber Room

The summer palace is also referred to as the Katerina’s Palace or Tsarskoye Selo. You can get there on an organised tour or just catch the metro to Avtova station and find a minibus outside going to Царское Село !

Kiev Zhulyany Airport

August 23rd, 2011

It is always good to see a new airport, particularly when they are small and have a nice bar or restaurant right outside! Kiev Zhulyany (Жуляни) airport has been around a long time but not much used up to now, kinda drowned out by Kiev’s big brother Borispol.

Now Wizzair  have moved their operations their from Borispol and I can quickly see this is a very shrewd move. It is a small airport but has all that one needs. Six immigration desks are available and normally staffed when a plane arrives. Passengers get to the terminal via an airport bus, in case walking 100m might be too much ! Once thrown out of the bus you are into the immigration hall (surprisingly modern toilets on the right but you will end up at the back of the queue!). Join any line, everyone else does, ignore the Ukrainians only sign and be ready to pounce on the diplomats/crew line as it will be used ! No landing cards are needed anymore.

The suitcases trundle up next door on a big trolley and you can grab your own from the pile; no fancy conveyer belts here.

In the terminal itself is a bank which does currency exchange at excellent rates, no being ripped off here. It stays open reasonably late, till at least 7pm when I was passing last.

Talking of being ripped off, here come the taxi drivers ! They helpfully take any currency but will take it all from you! A taxi should cost in the region of 50UAH to the centre if you order by telephone, but that is a good starting point. Alternatively just hop on a bus. The best bus stop is not outside the terminal but 100m or so to the right as you leave the terminal, and just to the right by the traffic lights. There is meant to be a marshutka from outside the terminal but the corner bus stop is much more frequent.

Zhulyany airport does not really have its own web site yet, it seems to be permanently under construction, which is also promised for the airport itself one day!

The best bit is the easy availability of a cold beer or snack just outside the airport, and the further you are inclined to walk, the lower the prices. Nothing like a cold beer when waiting for the onward flight connection. Speaking of which, Khors Air fly to Lviv, Odessa and Kharkov for about $90 one way if the train is too much for you…

Right next to the airport is the Ukraine State Air Museum, though it is currently only in Russian. This is a great way to pass an hour waiting for the delayed flight :)

Espresso machine in Hand Luggage !

August 23rd, 2011

Now I have given up the suitcase and live life purely in the hand baggage lane, I am going to have to find out what is the limit to getting through security at airports. Some airports are easier than others depending on how ‘restrictive’ they are shall we say. In fact, as you head eastwards from America they become more and more relaxed – it doesn’t need much common sense to see a frozen turkey is unlikely to be used in a plane hijack but who knows till you arrive.

So, having purchased a second-hand  Gaggia espresso machine in London, I stuck it into a plastic bag and off to the airport I went. Surprise, surprise, the operator on the x-ray machine asked me ‘what is this??’, and when I said ‘an espresso machine’ and peeled off the bag there were no issues. On transiting in lovely Kiev even less attention. Which is fortunate, as now I can enjoy my favourite doppio macchiato before I leave the house.

Ah, coffee and travel, what could be better.